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| Q.1 |
What is the counter mix composed
of? |
| A.1 |
The mix is a special concrete formula
packed into seventy-pound sacks. It is a mixture of marble aggregate,
silica sand and white cement and a few additional ingredients we
consider proprietary. |
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| Q.2 |
How do I get the material? |
| A.2 |
You may purchase products online or
thru a distributor near you. You may help us expand our distribution
by asking your local distributor to contact us at Buddy Rhodes concrete
mix, inc. thru our toll-free number: 877-706-5303. |
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| Q.3 |
How much concrete will each
bag produce? |
| A.3 |
Each bag produces 2/3 cubic foot or 5 square feet of material
at 1 1/2” thickness.
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| Q.4 |
How much liquid color will
I need to buy? |
| A.4 |
We formulated one jar of color to two
bags of mix. The reason for this is to assure quality control when
mixing different concrete batches. Each color requires different
amounts of pigment to achieve the desired result. |
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| Q.5 |
Can I use re-bar in my counter
top? |
| A.5 |
We recommend using a galvanized expanded
wire mesh placed in the center of the slab, thus allowing the concrete
to expand and contract. Because the concrete mix is composed of
finer material, it increases the body density and allows for more
shrinkage. |
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| Q.6 |
Do the edge forms work on pre-cast
counters? |
| A.6 |
The extruded styrene edge forms are made for a cast in place
application. They have a flange that can be clamped onto the cabinets.
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| Q.7 |
How do I keep the concrete from
leaking onto my cabinets? |
| A.7 |
Caulk the edge of the form and the
cabinet face to prevent the cement from dripping. Cover the cabinet
face and floor area with drop cloths as well. |
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| Q.8 |
How long do I wait before I
can strip the mold? |
| A.8 |
Most times you can de-mold the next day.
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| Q.9 |
Do I need to keep the concrete
wet after pouring? |
| A.9 |
The most important thing you can do is to cure the concrete
slowly and evenly. If you have cast the counter in place, spray
the concrete with water and tent the project with plastic, being
careful to keep the plastic off the wet surface so as to prevent
stains. Block out direct sunlight that could cause drying of the
slabs. If you have precast the counter, elevate the slab onto
2x4 blocks to allow for air circulation of the piece.
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| Q.10 |
How long do I wait to polish
or grind the counters once they are cast? |
| A.10 |
After at least two days, polish with diamond pads and water
starting with #120 grit (black), then #220 grit (red) and finish
with #440 grit (yellow). Be sure to sponge the area free of any
sludge.
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| Q.11 |
How soon shall I seal and which
sealer do you recommend? |
| A.11 |
After the cement has thoroughly dried,
apply one coat of penetrating sealer. Let dry completely and apply
a second coat. For added protection and higher sheen, apply the
satin sealer. |
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| Q.12 |
Why should I use beeswax? |
| A.12 |
The beeswax is a finishing touch and
provided another level of protection. It is recommended to use this
every two or three months to keep the counters in good shape. Use
a soft cloth to apply the wax. |
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| Q.13 |
How do I achieve the “pressed”
look? |
| A.13 |
The pressed or veined finish is made
upside down against a smooth mold. Mix the concrete into a clay-like
consistency and press small handfuls into the mold, filling it half
way up. This technique will cause voids to form. Let this set up
for a half hour or so. Wet the remainder of the cement batch to
get a more ‘sour cream’ feel. Next, place the galvanized
expanded wire mesh in the center of the slab and top off the mold
with the rest of the mixture. The next day, flip the slab and elevate
on 2x4 blocks of wood. This will allow the air to circulate under
the piece and provide even curing. Fill the voids with a colored
“slurry”. Let dry overnight and polish. Repeat the process
to fill any voids that remain after polishing. (See above for grinding
instructions.) |
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